Lucinda O’Sullivan: ‘The desserts were a bit of a shocker’ Our critic dines at new D4 wine bar Dorian

New restaurants are like buses — there’s either a dearth or several arrive together. On the week I reviewed Dorian , there were three others touting their wares through ever-positive PR people. Having started in Kildare Street, chefs Niall Davidson and Hugh Higgins went walkabout with their allta concept to the grounds of lofty Slane Castle .

Now, they’ve returned to the big smoke with allta Winter House, in a lofty space of another variety — level five of Trinity Street Car Park. They’re serving 12 courses at €95 per person to parties of four minimum. They are to move to a new base in the new year.

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