Restaurant review: ‘Killian Durkin’s food has only become more assured in the nearly two years since I first visited Mamó, and ours is a faultless meal’

Baby Lily approves of the Lough Neagh tartlet with lemon ricotta and broad beans, as well she might. (Is there a little hint of the sadly underused tarragon in there too? I think so.) The dinky little tartlets — of which there are three — are from the ‘Grazing’ section of the menu at Mamó, and squishing one through her chubby little fingers on the way to her mouth only adds to Lily’s pleasure.

ily is keen on the melting croquettes with Cinco Jotas jamón and tarragon aioli too — really, what’s not to like? — and then she tries the signature ‘Cod Chip’. A whisper of rosemary runs through the confit potato, its crunchy exterior topped with taramasalata. Initially she’s not too sure about the cod roe (the chip is, unsurprisingly, an instant hit) but comes around after a second taste. Good girl, Lily. You’ll go far.

It’s a sunny day in high summer, and the two car-parking spaces outside Mamó have morphed into a stylish, airy terrace with a gentle breeze blowing in from the sea. It’s a day for rosé, no doubt about it, and so we start with a glass of the fruity Mora e Memo from Sardinia.

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